Covering these broad shoulders...

So last night I spent the whole evening adjusting a pattern for a top (Simplicity 4017, a tunic) to match a RTW top that fits me well. I used a great video on youtube by the even greater sew-er, David Page Coffin. That man could sew up a good-looking paper hat. His video shows how to copy a shirt without ever taking it apart. Wonderful. And it works!!

I needed to copy this RTW top because I have something going on in my shoulder/upper back/ armhole area that makes me crazy...I simply cannot reach forward (like typing on a keyboard) comfortably. I always feel like the T-rex in Meet The Robinsons, where his arms are just too-too short. I have measured the RTW top and compared the measurements to the pattern. No dice. I have tried broadening the shoulders, or broadening the back, or cutting the armhole high and tight or all three with no effect. Zip. I have RTW tailored jackets that don't bind and this one top. So finally, after having discovered DPC's awesome video, I have possibly found my solution.

Comparing the pattern to the RTW pattern, I discover three things. Now, keep in mind that I wear something like a petite small in RTC, and according to my measurements, I need to sew a size 6 in patterns. First thing I discover, which surprised me, but not really: the armhole on the RTW top is much, much lower than in the pattern. It's nearly an inch lower! I always get draglines underneath the armhole on my handmade tops. So I suspected this. Second, the front and back shoulders are wider by 3/4". This surprises me but shouldn't, really. I have broad shoulders...but it's deceptive since I have a well developed trapezius (sp) muscle, so I also have sloping shoulders as well. Aha.... And finally, the upper bust and upper back are both wider than the pattern by, check this out, two inches. No wonder my tops are so tight. So I made some opportune additions to the pattern top, cut out the fabric for the muslin and sometime this weekend, I will whip up the muslin and see how all those changes work out...

The reason why I pointed out my size is because of this...this RTW top fits me pretty well. And I am IMPRESSED that the pattern size had so little ease built into it. Of course, the adjusted pattern now looks huge and weird. But if it works, and I can pull that top over my head and not feel like a 5-foot tall T-Rex with itty-bitty arms...then I am all for huge and weird!

I shall report back...